Poor Menswear Shows. Not only are they sandwiched between Pre-Fall and Fall runway shows in January, but they don’t even have a huge community of loyal, gushing bloggers posting OOTDs (outfits of the day) and runway looks.
Everyone seems to think menswear shows are sort of boring–they’re always suits, and those are always pretty much black and brown, right?
Okay, so there are a lot of suits. But when you look closely, they’re all as different as couture gowns, just not as strikingly so. And this season saw sleek nods to the 60s, full velvet outfits and lots and lots of man bags. So do menswear everywhere a favor and check out the Fall collections. Tell us which are your favorites, or make you cringe, and take a peek at what’s in for the boys for Fall 2012.
We ladies tend to steal a lot of things from the menfolk—boyfriend blazers, smoking shoes, tuxedo pants—so it’s only fair that they reclaim something every now and again. Like velvet.One of the best additions to the F/W 2011 womenswear showings was translated into luxe velvet tailored pieces, full suits and big snuggly coats for the boys at Gucci, Burberry, Canali, Ferragamo, Etro and Alexander McQueen. Take heed, boys.
Just as the womenswear designers have most recently fixated on the 60s, menswear showings like Canali and Gucci were full of looks that would have made Bond—1962 – 1967 Sean Connery Bond, not Daniel Craig Bond—feel quite at home. And Jonathan Saunders played with prints, pastels and mod silhouettes pretty brilliantly as well, giving his pre-fall women’s collection a run for its money.
It’s said that in times of economic hardship, people turn to clothes and movies for a bit of a getaway. I think everyone gets bored of dressing grungy, and every 20 years we all bounce back into super spiffy wardrobes (and a recent massive royal wedding helps that along). Prada and Salvatore Ferragamo showed two kinds of aristocrat this season: Prada the obvious royal, complete with military detailing and knee-length coats; Ferragamo the modern noble, with all of the richness in the gem tones and the detailing. Either way is a lovely break from the giant sweaters and slouchy coats of streetwear.
Versace does not put out clothing of very subtle aesthetic. Ever. So it makes sense that they led the red charge this season, with gorgeous crimson overcoats and bright red details that were also seen at Etro. They did, however, go a teensy bit overboard with the technicolor vomit + neon green collared suit sets. But I suppose they’ve earned the right.
There were lots of professorially looks this season—literal and deconstructed. Plaids, from the subtle at McQueen and Brioni, to the, well, Westwoodesque at VIvienne Westwood, surfaced regularly in smart suits and jackets, and the Murse made a glorious return at several shows in the form of large leather satchels and doctor’s bags.